Adjustable chart.



PATENTED APR. 23, 1907. E. H. PETERSON.

ADJUSTABLE GHART.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 8. 1906.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

PATENTED APR. 23, 1907.

E. H. PETERSON. ADJUSTABLE CHART. APPLICATION FILED 00T.8. 1906'.

3 SHEETSSEEET 2.

[z uezzn 35561119071 @fl/Lw (lama No. 851,374. PATENTED APR. 23, 1907. E. H. PETERSON;

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

APPLIUATION FILED oo'r.a.19os

3 SHEETS-SHBET 3.

In: NORRIS PETERS co, \usumarcu, n. c.

ERICK II. PETERSON, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

Specification of Letters Patent.

katented April 28, 190 7.

Application filed October 8,1906. Serial No. 838.017.

To all 10/1071). [2 'lH/(l l/ calmer-1t:

Beit known that I, Enron H. PETERSON, a i citizen of the United States, residing in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Ad ustable Charts, of which the following is a specification.

One object of my invention is to provide y an adjustable pattern or patterndrafting device by the aid of which it shall be possible for even a comparatively unskilled workman to draft a garment after certain standard measurements have been secured from the person for whom said garment is intended; it being further desired to so arrange the various parts of the device that considerable time may be saved and more accurate drafts of garments or their parts be secured than has hitherto been possible.

It is also further desired to provide a device of the character above described, whereby it shall be possible to secure a uniformity in the lines of garments made by the same house.

These objects I attain as hereinafter set forth, reference being had to the accompany ing drawings, in which:

Figure 1, is a plan of a pattern for drafting the fore part of a coat; the same being arranged and constructed according to my invention. Fig. 2, is a 'similanview of the pattern for the rear part of a coat; Figs. 3 and 4, are plans of patterns for drafting the two parts of a vest Figs. 5 and 6, are plans of patterns for drafting the two parts of a sleeve, and Figs. 7 and 8 are plans of the patterns for drafting the parts of a pair of trousers.

Referring to the above drawings, it will be seen that the pattern in each instance eonsists of a flat and relatively thin sheet of material such as aluminum or other metal, although it may be of fiber, cardboard, etc. In some instances there are certain edges of the pattern whose shape and dimensions are invariable for all individuals and in any case those portions of the periphery of the pattern, which vary for different individuals, are provided with adjustable marginal strips, so mounted as to be movable into positions cor responding to certain possible variable dimensions of the particular part on which they I are placed.

While I have shown the various patterns required for the drafting of a m ans complete suit, I shall explain the actual construction and application of but one of these parts, in asmuch as those skilled in the art will coml prehend the construction and application of the reinan'nng parts.

In Fig. 1, A represents a relatively thin sheet of material having the general outlineof the fore part of a mans coat. In this case all of the bounding edges of said sheet, except a portion a of that defining the outline of the arm-hole, is provided with adjustable marginal strips. Of these, there is on the front and bottom edge of the sheet A a sectional strip a whose outer edge is given the contour of a perfect or standard coat; its so-called coat lines being laid out by the designer of the particular house using the pattern. It may be noted that in every case the adjustable marginal strips have their outer edges proportioned and designed with this idea in view, viz, to provide a sub stantially invariable contour for the periphcry or outline of the various parts of a garment. The strip a is preferably made in a number of sections respectively pivoted together, there being slots in the sections at the pivotal points to permit also of relative longitudinal movement of said sections. Said strip is held in position by inwardly projecting lugs (L2 provided with slots extending in lines substantially perpendicular to its outer edge so as to permit of said strip being moved in or out upon rivets, eyelets or thumb screws a fixed to the sheet A and passing through said slots. The lugs them.- selves may be either integral with the sec tion of the strip from which they project or they may be pivoted thereto; both forms of the device being shown in Fig. 1. That portion of the edge of the sheet A on which the strip a, is mounted is provided with a series of lines, which, while they extend in a great measure almost parallel to said edge, may and, in fact, usually do vary in their distance from each other and from said edge at various parts of their length. Said lines are designated by numbers representing j variations in the breast measures of diil'erent individuals; the numbering being from 33 to 42 in the present instance. These lines are laid out from a large number of measurements taken on different individuals, so thatjl"or examplethe line 83 is shaped 1 so that when the inside edges of the sections of the strip a are made co-incident with it, the outer edge of said strip lies in a line which should rightly be given to the outside edge of the fore part of a coat suitably designed for the individual having a 33 inch breast measure. It will be fruther noted that by having a number of slotted lugs a and corresponding rivets or thumb screws a, it is possible tor certain portions of the strip a to be moved in or out more than others in order that the inner edge of said strip may be made to conform to the desired one of the guide lines. One of the lugs a of the bottom section a of the strip a is provided with an index mark a placed to co-operate with a scale laid out adjacent to the line of movement of said lug. This scale is provided with divisions corresponding to full inches and fractions thereof, so thatfor exampleior a coat having a length of 32 the section a would be moved outwardly until the arrow a is opposite the line 32 of the scale, after which the said strip would be swung on its pivot until its inside edge coincided with the proper one of the guidelines b above referred to. The substantially vertical portion of the rear edge of the sheet A is provided with a series of arbitrary lines 0 and an adjustable strip C also having slotted lugs with their guiding rivets. The upper portion of the edge of sheet A is provided with two marginal strips D and E pivoted together at their adjacent ends, and also provided with slotted lugs for the reception of thumb screws carried by the said body sheet. The end of the strip E adjacent to the arm-hole recess ot the sheet A has adjustably connected to it a jointed strip E formed of a number of short sections pivoted together and serving to define the upper portion of said arm-hole recess. The last one of said sections is slotted and provided with a scale 6 designed to co-operate with the breast line hereafter re ferred to. Both of the particular portions of the edge of the sheet A, adjacent to which said strips are supported, have guiding lines (1 and 6 respectively, to which the in her edges of said strips can be set in order to correspond to any given measurement, while properly spaced guide lines 6 are placed on the strip E by which the position of the upper end of the section E may be de termined.

It will be understood that in each instance the guide lines a 6 0, etc., are numbered from 33 to 42 to correspond to possible variations in breast measure, though, in addition, I may in some instances, as in the case of the section a and strip D provide a scale having full size divisions graduated in terms of possible variation of a particular dimension.

In the case of the pattern for the rear part of the coat, shown in Fig. 2, I provide a main body or supporting sheet G; providing this at its lower edge with a strip H having slotted lugs h pivoted to it and slidably engaging eyelets 7L projecting from the said support ing sheet. The curved edge of this pattern is provided with the adjustable strip I made in three sections pivoted together and having slotted lugs so as to be movable in or out on its supporting rivets "i. The upper end of the sheet 9 I provide with an adjustable edge strip K, made in two pivotally connected parts, of which the second K is prolonged downwardly along the straight side of the sheet. This part K is provided with slots so that it is free to move in a line substantially parallel with the edge to which it is adjacent and is provided with a scale graduated in inches designed to be used in connection with a line 7c, w iich, in the present instance, is the breast line of the coat. The end of the strip K adjacent to the upper section I of the strip I is provided with a section 76 movable bodily upon a pair of guide pivots, as shown, toward and from said end to vary the overall length. of said strip K; there being a suitable scale k placed upon the body of the strip to aid in placing this movable section in any desired adjustment. Pivoted adjacent to the main body section G near to the breast line 7r: so that one of its edges may be made to correspond therewith is a strip L graduated in inches. The breast line is continued upon the body of the sheet A, Fig. 1, as indicated at 76 and there is at a predetermined point on this an index mark k designed to co-operate with the scale on the pivoted strip L. In order to properly adjust the side strips of these two pattern sections shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the individual measurement is actually taken from the center of the back, under the arm to a predetermined point slightly in front of and below the arm. This distance is laid off on the scale L and the point thereon indicated is brought into coincidence with the index mark 76 one of the patterns being moved for this purpose. he strips C, I, and I may then be adjusted to give the suitable form and dimensions to the arm-hole recesses of said two pattern sections, being also placed so as to occupy the correct relative positions along the edges of said sections.

The various movable strips of the pattern shown in Fig. 2, may be adjusted, if desired, in the same manner as described in connection with the pattern A there being in each instance a series of lines placed on the main body G adjacent to the adjustable edge strip, with any of which the inside edges of said strips may be made to coincide as desired. It is obvious that the parts of the strip I-I may be adjusted to give the proper width of the lower part of the patterns.

The two sections of the vest pattern J and M are respectively shown in Figs. 4 and 3, while for the sleeve I provide two sections I and I, and for the trousers, two sections Q and R. In all of these patterns I provide adjustable strips for their edges and so mount these latter upon a flat supporting sheet or body that their respective inside side edges may be made to coincide with certain lines drawn adjacent to the edges of the sheets. Said lines are so placed and laid off that when said strips have been properly set or adjusted a pattern is provided from which material for a garment may be properly out to suit the proportions of any person from whom the original measurements were taken.

lt will be understood that for convenieine each pattern or set of patterns may be designed for use in laying out garments for persons whose various measurements are between certain limits there being in such case another set or sets of patterns for persons of larger or smaller size.

lt will be seen that by the use of a pattern constructed according to my invention, it is possible even for a comparatively unskilled cutter to apply to the pattern certain measurements given him and therefrom to lay out or cut a garment to conform to predetermined lines and a design which shall be characteristic of the particular establishment em ploying said pattern.

By the use of continuous guide lines adj acent to the edges of the bodies of various patterns, it is possible to properly place the sectional edge strips so that the r will conform to said lines throughout their length and thereby give such an outline to the pattern, and therefore to the finished garment, as has been found by experience of the person who designed said pattern to be most satisfactory.

In using the pattern for cutting out material for ready made garments, all of the strips are adjusted to conform to the guide lines for the various sizes desired, while for made to measure work the adjustment of the strips is governed and supplemented by additional measurements actually taken on the person for whom the garment is to be made and laid off on the various supplementary scales such as those shown in connection with the strips (0, D, H, I, etc.

I claim as my invention:

1. A garment pattern consisting of a piece of sheet material conforming in general outline to a definite pattern, with a sectional edge strip or strips mounted on said piece and adjustable thereon to vary the overall proportions thereof, said strip or strips being composed of a series of sections pivotally connected, there being a series of continuous lines of predetermined form and distame from each other extending along and substantially parallel with the edge of the said piece, the inner edge of said adjustable strip or strips being formed to be ltrought into substantial coincidenre with any of said lines,

substantially as described.

2. A pattern having a body consisting of a piece of sheet material provided with a series of continuous lines along and substantially parallel with certain of its edges and (onforming in general outline to the outline of the pattern, said lines being of a predetering scale divisions and mined distance apart, adjustable strips for said edges consisting of sections flexibly pivoted together, said strips being provided with inwardly extending slotted lugs, holding means passing through the slots of said lugs and fixed to the body for holding the strips thereto, while pern'iitting of their adjustment, the outside edge of each strip being cut to ;onform to the desired line of a certain portion of the garment, and the inside edges of said strips lreing rut so as to be rapable of being brought into roirnidenre with any of said lines, substantially as des'l rihed.

3. A pattern consisting of a body of sheet material having lines extending continuously along and substantially parallel with certain of its edges, said lines being spaced at predetermined distances apart and graduated to cOll'tSPOlltl with possible variations in one measurement of a person for whom the garment is intended, sectional edge strips for said piece of sheet material adjustable in a plane parallelthereto and toward and from the same, certain sections of said strip being pivoted together so as to be independently movable to permit of the inside edge of the different parts of the strip being brought into coincidence with said lines on the body, sub stantially as described.

t. A pattern consisting of a body of substantially flat sheet material, edge strips consisting of pivotally connected sections provided with slotted lugs extending inwardly toward the body and having holding means passing through them whereby the strips are held in position, continuous guide lines around and sulJstantiallyparallel to the edges of the body portion placed so that the inner edges of the respective edge strips may be brought .into coincidence with them, there being a scale or scales adjacent to certain of the lugs, and an index mark placed on said lug or lugs to oo-operate with said scale or scales, substantially as described.

5. The combination of two patterns, each consisting of a body of sheet material and each provided with adjustable edge strips movable to aller the overall proportions of the pattern, there being guide lines on the bodies adjacent to the edges thereof, and so placed as to permit of the inner edges of the strips being brought into coincidence with them, a line on each of the body portions, and a strip pivoted to one of said bodies adjacent; to the said line thereon, said strip havbeing placed to co-opcrate with an index mark on the line fori'ned on the other body, snbstaniially as described.

6. The combination in a pattern of a body of sheet mate-rial having a series of continuous guide lines extending adj aeent to and parallel with the different portions of its edges, edge stri'g's fixed to said body adjacent to said edges, one of the strips being movable toward and from the body in substantially IIO IIS

straight lines and another of the strips being pivoted to said first strip, the inner edges of all of the strips being formed to be capable of being brought into coincidence with the guide lines, substantially as described.

7 The combination in a pattern of a body of sheet material, adjustable edge strips therefor, slotted lugs pivoted to said strips and extending over the body, and holding devices mounted on the body and respectively extending through the slots of the lugs, certain of the edge strips being made in a plural ity of sections pivotally connected together, with a series of continuous guide lines placed on the body to cooperate with the inner edges of the edge strips, the lines of the series being of different forms though approximately parallel, substantially as described.

8. The combination in a pattern of a body of sheet material, and adjustable edge strips mounted on the body, certain of said strips being made in a plurality of sections adjustably connected together so as to be longitudinally movable relatively to each other, with a series of guide lines extending continuously adjacent to and substantially parallel with the edges of the body so as to co-operate with the inner edges of the adjustable strips, said lines tions and certain strips being jointed so as to be capable of adjustment to said configurations, substantially-as described.

9. A garment pattern consisting of a body I l j of sheet material conforming in general outline to a definite pattern, an edge strip consisting of a number of pivotally connected sections and having a projecting lug or lugs pivotally connected to it, and holding means on the pattern body engaging said lugs, there being a series of substantially parallel and continuous guide lines upon said pattern body placed so that the inner edges of the edge strips may be brought into coincidence with them, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ERICK H. PETERSON.

l Witnesses l WM. E. SHUPE, j Jos. H. KLEIN.

being of different configura- 

